Another cold morning in the Okavango with frost on the ground and mist on the water. On an early morning drive we find thousands of birds but fail to find an elusive lion which leaves fresh tracks all around us but disappears every time we look.

It is not just Vicky who has turned into a 'birdie'. Louise and Tommy soon become expert game spotters. It doesn't take binoculars to spot this young bull elephant taking a dust bath. However he doesn't want to see us and soon disappears into the bush.

At lunchtime we head off to Jacana camp. We swap a Land Rover for a flat bottomed boat, say goodbye to to Moa and negotiate the hippo channels through the swamp to reach this spectacular camp on an island in the wettest part of the delta.

The small island we are staying on has a resident elephant - Jack who wakes us at night shaking a palm above our tent. Instead of looking for game in a Land Rover at Jacana camp we go out in mekoros - based on the traditional dug outs used by the Okavango locals. These ones are more environmentally friendly being made of fiberglass - less damaging to the trees. Our polers punt us through the shallow channels with the rushes and papyrus brushing our faces. We float past water lilies as we spot herons, fish eagles, cranes and the odd elephant crashing through the water. Also impressive was the sound of impala running through the water.

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